Rattled but not stirred ...
- mcnovies
- Aug 31
- 7 min read
Well … we’ve done the Gibb … what was it like you ask? Ummm … not so bad … we drove from Derby to El Questro (West to East) … sure it is rough … especially from the Kalumburu turnoff to the Pentecost River Crossing (about 180kms) … in fact, the last 180kms kms is almost one continuous journey of corrugations interspersed with creek crossings (mostly dry); the odd water crossing; short teasers of beautiful bitumen; a multitude of gorges … some accessible with a short trek from the Gibb River Road; some require 10-50km drives on an equally rough unsealed road … then a 3-5km walk (Grade 3 to Grade 5 difficulty level); the latter part (closer to the Pentecost River) is spectacular as you approach the Cockburn Ranges which tower; some gorges are only accessible from the various stations … most of which are not advertised broadly. We didn’t see much in the way of wildlife other than the odd cow … and very little traffic over the entire 10 days we took to drive the 600km trip.
While at Mt Elizabeth Station we drove to one of the gorges (Warla Gorge) on the Station … (see previous blog) … it is about 20kms from the main Homestead … they also had another gorge (Wunnumurra Gorge) that they rated as a more difficult drive … which is 12 kms from the main Homestead. We met up with some travellers who had done the more difficult gorge that day … they recounted how they came across another group ahead of them trying to traverse a particularly steep section to get down to a waterhole … one person was outside of the vehicle “spotting” … giving minute directions on where to place the front wheels while the kids picked up rocks to lessen the drop off from the larger rocks/boulders that they were traversing. The person I was speaking with had just noticed oil under his vehicle having been down that track and hearing several large scrapes and bangs as they traversed the rocks (even with his vehicle having a 2 inch lift in the suspension). He was very concerned about possible damage he had incurred. Another camper nearby had broken 2 CV joints on his vehicle on the same track and was in the process of disconnecting them so they could continue their journey (thereby losing his 4 wheel drive capability and being forced into 2 wheel drive).
We also drove out to the “old homestead” (which was about 20kms from the current homestead) that was apparently built around 1945 using local rock and held together with termite mounds … the timber frame clearly shows local trees in its structure and is attached to the stonework with fencing wire … some of it is barbed wire … the main part of the house has a high ceiling and was reasonably cool inside … the back part of the house (kitchen and dining room?) was about 6 feet high and very hot inside … no insulation on the roof in either part … just raw corrugated iron sheets … there was the odd light switch that had clearly been added much later in its history as they balanced precariously on the wall with the attached wiring exposed – no plaster here …
The weather has progressively increased about 5 degrees over the past 5 days and has been around 35-38 during the day and up to 24 overnight. With this has been a noticeable drop in the number of vehicles on the road but also at the various camp areas. Even the staff at some of the stations commented on how much fewer travellers there were in the past 5 days as they prepared for closing at the end of September.
After leaving Mt Elizabeth Station, we spent a night at Ellenbrae Station. Famous for its scones and jam and cream, it is a cattle station boasting 1 million acres in size. Their scones are so popular that in 2024, they made 21,149 scones ... not bad when you consider they are closed for 5-6 months due to the wet season. Apparently, they initially sold home brand fruit cake ... but marketed it as "homemade".
Next day, we moved on and spent 2 nights at Home Valley Station (Balanggarra). Home Valley Station is 3.5m acres and borders the Pentecost River with El Questro on the other side.
Our first night was on their riverside camp area, some 7 kms from the main camp area (Homestead). We arrived and set up camp.
The views of the Pentecost River with the Cockburn Ranges as a backdrop were stunning … the river is tidal and at its lowest point was probably about half the width of when it was full … croc spotting was easy … they cruised up and down the river while the barramundi could be seen chasing these little fish that skipped along the top of the water … getting too close to the water was not advisable … but it was 38 degrees with almost no shade and little whirlwinds of fine dust blowing like a ghost town in a western movie!
The following morning, we were up before 5am to see the sunrise on the ranges then moved camp up to the main station campground with shade! But … we were unable to access our site (as we were too early) so we dropped the Tvan and Cruiser and went for an 8km walk to yet another gorge (Bindoola Gorge) before the heat of the day kicked in … then came back and setup … then went for a swim … then a beer …
Last day at Home Valley Station, we hit the walking trails again and headed off before 7am and did 2 walks (7km walks to a couple of lookouts) before the heat. We packed up and headed back to the Gibb River Road and the famous Pentecost River Crossing.
I had really been looking forward to this having seen countless YouTube videos and read as much as I could about the crossing … it can be up to 60m wide; tidal; rocky; up 1 metre deep … we came over the hill to be waved onto the crossing by another vehicle … the tide was down … there was about 18 inches of water and a clear line along one side … no dramas … all over in a matter of seconds … an anti-climax!
Back on the bitumen … oh so smooth after 8 days on the Gibb with its corrugations and rocks we headed to El Questro with somewhat mixed emotions … El Questro had been closed until yesterday due to bushfires … in fact, they evacuated everyone … our initial booking was changed … some of the walks were closed and one of the gorges is closed.
The drive into El Questro was another little experience I was looking forward to … mainly the drive in … a couple of water crossings in the brochure … beautiful … one of them is 60m long and about 1m deep … looking forward to this … doh! I have seen this so many times on YouTube … well there was one short water crossing with 400mm of water and the 60m one was more like 35m and 800mm of water … we are on a riverside camp … but it is hard to see the river … the camp is only about 30% occupied … whether it is due to the bushfires and rescheduling or that there are just fewer people travelling in this area … but it is 39 degrees and there is no wind … the big waterholes in the brochures are little ponds … but my gawd the Gin tastes good!
On our first morning at El Questro we went back over the river crossings to one of the main attractions – Zebberdee Springs. Set in a pre-historic forest of Livistona and pandanus palms, it is a series of natural, thermal, cascading springs at the base of a massive sheer rock wall. The water temperature is an all year pleasant 28-32 degrees. The sheer rock wall is estimated to be 1800m years old. The spring is only accessible after 7am but we had to be out of there by 9am due to a private event (a filming). Our timing was perfect … we were minutes ahead of the dreaded tour bus and the hoarding masses and snagged our own little piece of paradise!
Later in the morning, we drove to one of the lookouts (Pidgeon Hole Lookout) via a 4WD track on El Questro. We walked along the ridge line track … rock hopping as we went while admiring the views from both sides … El Questro on one side and the Pentecost valley on the other with the Cockburn Ranges. Pidgeon Hole is part of the Pentecost River and was named by the Durack family in 1882.
For the afternoon, we took a cruise up the Chamberlain Gorge where we spotted a couple of crocs and some small wallabies nestled high up in caves along the sheer rock walls. We fed some fish … large catfish; a barramundi about 70cm long and another about 50cm while being spat at by archerfish (or spinner fish) that direct a stream of water at their prey with great precision. Apparently, an adult archerfish can bring down a land-based insect from 3m above the surface of the water on the first shot! They have incredible eyesight and the ability to compensate for the refraction of light as it passes through the air-water interface while aiming. I was hit in the eye numerous times.
Our last morning, we left the main El Questro resort and made out way to Emma Gorge which is still part of El Questro but at another location. The gorge walk is about an hour of rock hopping and scrambling (Grade 4) into the gorge where you are greeted with a 65m droplet waterfall with a clear swimming hole at the base. This was a fabulous way to finish our Gibb River Road experience. We did the walk, had a paddle and were back at the Emma Gorge Resort by 11am with the temperature nudging a windless 36 degrees (the car said 40). We then journeyed back on the bitumen to Kununurra where it was 39 degrees followed by very hot (24 degree) night.
We leave El Questro having “done the Gibb”. So far, nothing has broken or fallen off either the Tvan or the Cruiser (except the Christmas lights) and no water in any of the hatches in the Tvan or dust. Two new tyres on the Cruiser to be fitted before we head down the Tanami Track to Alice Springs … 1035km of mostly unsealed road and limited fuel opportunities …
The Queensland tourist … Jim Jim Falls wound almost healed – 99% done. Football injury … improving
Edit: 31 Aug 2025 - Ellenbrae Station has been closed due to bushfires on the station today. Birdwood Downs Station survived a major bushfire yesterday.
Amazing photos again
Pentecost River?? Sounds a bit spiritual? Enjoy. G
Another beautiful set of images and lovely descriptions guys. I also loved a bit of commentary on the river crossings. Thanks.