Bundey anyone?

The Christmas lights on the dashboard had a knock on effect… not just managing to get the repair done but finding somewhere to stay … it is crazy busy in the NT … free camps are full, caravan parks are booked out weeks in advance, as are station stays ... and the main roads are a stream of caravans and vehicles with rooftop tents …

Missing out on Nhulunbuy was a bit of a disappointment but we figure we will just have to come back and see all of the other stuff that we have marked as “must come back”… or have missed out on (Chambers Pillar, Old Andado Homestead, Trephina Gorge, Old Policeman's Waterhole, Tower Rock ... the list goes on ...)

We found a small National Park with about 7 campsites called Umbrawarra Gorge which is about 230km north west of Elsey NP.  We had 2. Nights here.  Nearby is small gorge which contains a clear water stream and some beautiful swimming holes (no crocs here!).  About a 1km of rock hopping along the water edge with sheer cliffs on the other side … spectacular … esp given there was hardly anyone there! 

Umbrawarra Gorge

On dusk the first night, about 30 metres from us was a huge commotion of crashing trees, cracking undergrowth, snorting and bellowing and hooves on the dry ground.  A water buffalo appeared … indignant in its stance … I suspect that Ms Buffalo was not too happy about Mr Buffalo’s advances … she disappeared into the bush near us … away from Mr Buffalo.

We then headed north to Adelaide River (about 140km) passing through Pine Creek. Pine Creek's claim to fame is gold ... it was discovered while digging poles for the Overland Telegraph Line and remained a steady yielder from late 1800s to early 1900s. At its peak there were over 5000 Chinese miners in Pine Creek. Pine Creek celebrates its Annual Gold Rush Festival at the end of June each year with fireworks!

Pine Creek Gold Mining Equipment

Adelaide River is known for its manicured WWII cemetery where 434 servicemen and 63 civilians are buried following Japanese air raids on Darwin involving 188 planes (launched from 4 Japanese Aircraft Carriers) in two raids.  These were 2 of about 100 on Australia in 1942-43 and just 4 days after the fall of Singapore. War Cemeteries are very sobering and reflective places.  There is a certain peacefulness about them … in direct contrast to the events that lead to their existence …

For the past 5 nights have been at Mt Bundey Station which is a couple of kms from Adelaide River.  Oddly, it is only half full … we have a generous site that backs onto to a passing parade of long horn cows, water buffalo, pigs, and donkeys with a huge dam that apparently has crocs in it!

It is fascinating watching the pecking order play out … water buffalo rule! There is a lone Jabiru, different waterbirds, countless hawks that glide in the thermals just above us, the obligatory cockatoos and other birds in the nearby trees chirping endlessly.  In adjoining paddocks (and nearby) is the odd emu, Shetland ponies and a very grumpy and vocal donkey that sounds like a train whistle before moving into a raucous bellow.  Every night around dusk, scores of wallabies can be seen bounding through the paddocks at a great rate of knots ... they are everywhere!

Mt Bundey station was established in 1911 and originally occupied an area of over 2,100 km2. Its boundaries were once located within Litchfield National Park and Kakadu National Park. During WWII, it was taken over by the American forces who set up an airbase for repairing bombers. After a change of ownership in the 1960s it was developed into one of the largest cattle ranches of its time, consisting of over 1.1 million acres.  It carried over 30,000 buffalo and 20,000 head of Brahman cattle. 

We did a day trip to Daly River which was about 220km round trip.  We stopped and rock hopped up to Robin Falls.  The road in is unsealed and follows the creek with lots of little hidey holes where people have found campsites on the edge of the creek … a free camp and clearly popular.

Robin Falls

I (Pete), have been reading “Kings in Grass Castles” about the Durack dynasty who came from being struggling tenant farmers in County Clare to Australia in 1853 to Goulburn (NSW). 

They ultimately trekked to the Kimberley (some 4800kms) and settled near Kununurra taking men, horses and cattle and took up massive land holdings (over 44,000 sq kms).  Anyway … on their trek they pass through an area where the grass is so high that they can’t see the cattle or their horses … yeah sure … I’m thinking a bit of creative licence here … must be exaggerating … well … no … we drove through an area that they likely passed through … the wild grasses were 6-8 feet high amid termite mounds that were even higher.

Daly River Inn Store

Daly River is a mecca for fishing … barramundi … it is tidal, full of crocs (fresh and salt), has a population of about 450 and hosts the annual “Barra Nationals” and the “Barra Classic”. If you are into barramundi ... you'll love it ... if not ... tick it off ...

We had a counter lunch at the pub (well sort of … a hamburger and Cate had a piece of steak and some salad – it was meant to be a steak sandwich – but not coeliac friendly – so no bread)… we were the only 2 people in the outside eating area when 3 indigenous folk walked in ... one of the indigenous men plonked himself right next to me … through broken english we worked out that he was 45 years of age and had three kids but he couldn’t remember how old they were … his father was on a nearby table … he told us he was 75 years old … but the father said he was only 65 years!  His other companion was wearing lots of gold bling and designer labels with a very fine pair of sunnies that Dame Edna would’ve been very proud of …

Yesterday, was a trip to Darwin to restock the food situation. Nice to head up the highway without the TVan and do 130kmph (legally) … but a bit weird seeing so many cars on the road and traffic lights again … along the road to Darwin are countless WWII installations, mainly airfields and associated buildings... remnants of a bygone era.

Ahead of us is Edith Falls (Nitmiluk NP), Kakadu NP, Litchfield NP, Darwin then west … no more bookings for a while … except Kununurra and a flight to the Bungle Bungles …

We have travelled just on 10,000km (9977km).  Since arriving in the northern part of the NT, the weather has largely been 28-34 degrees every day and about 14-18 overnight.